AQUARIUS:
Start with an aquarium as large as you can afford. There is a basic principle (this only applies to beginners), which is to have 1-2-inch NARROW body of fish per gallon filtered aquarium. Goldfish are dirty and fatter, so that with three (3). This applies only to a standard rectangular aquarium.
Obviously because the fish need more tank width and length. I want to decrease the amount of fish in proportion to the height of gallons in an aquarium or hexagon aquarium.
Remember, many fish can be bought to grow much larger than its original purchase (eg, goldfish), so keep this in mind, too.
FILTERS:
I always recommend two filters minimum per aquarium for redundancy and to improve the biological (denitrifying) filtration. For a small aquarium, a combination of a wing on the back and a sponge filter. Or a sponge filter and an internal power filter. You want to make sure and rinse your sponge or cartridge in aquarium water used to maintain its beneficial bacteria for biological filtration.
Other filters include filter footnote, wet / dry, under gravel, and fluidized bed.
There are four types of filtration:
Biological removal of nitrogenous waste (ammonia, TEC), which is the most important type.
Mechanical removal of large debris (organic and inorganic) before it can go through the nitrogen cycle (organic)
Chemical elimination through chemical contamination of carbon, zeolite or many other products. This becomes less important in a healthy, established aquarium.
Germacidal; The use of UVC or ozone to kill disease pathogens and control of redox potential.
HEATER:
Most fish Tropical do well at a temperature between 76 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit. (Discus prefer warmer).
Goldfish do not need a heater.
I recommend 25 watts per 10 degrees of temperature that you need to increase the temperature of your aquarium. EX: If your house is 68 degrees and has a 40 gallon aquarium, to a temperature of 78 graders who need a 100 watt heater.
BIO-CYCLING:
Your aquarium will not be at peak for the biological filtration 6 weeks (or more). To start your biological filtration, there are many products available in cycling, for example, "Cycle" by Hagen. My success with these products is mixed in better, it is very difficult for aerobic bacteria that are needed for cycling your aquarium to life in a sealed container kept at room temperature because it dies very quickly without oxygen.
I prefer to add gravel and / or use the sponge filter cartridges or other aquarium.
This method of adding the media is much faster (which have yet to take it easy), and offers all the bacteria, the only negative is adding disease pathogens to their aquarium, but I have rarely encountered this problem.
We have used this method to our Aquarium Maintenance route for years and never lost a fish to ammonia or nitrite poisoning.
Another method is fishless cycling where a smell of ammonia was poured into the aquarium (3-5 drops per gallon pure ammonia) to so your ammonia level to 4-5 ppm. Then it takes about 3-8 weeks to cycle the aquarium. Although this method is growing in popularity, I would not recommend it, not because it does not work (it does), but because human nature is to add the fish before the 3-8 weeks is needed for this method.
The method adding media is much faster (which have yet to take it easy), and provides all the bacteria, the only downside is the addition of disease pathogens to your aquarium, but I have rarely encountered this problem.
Cycling is what is referred to as the nitrogen cycle. Waste (nitrogenous) of fish is divided first ammonia (NH3, the most toxic) to nitrites (NO2, less toxic) to nitrates (NO3, least toxic, but large amounts can stunt fish growth and lower resistance to disease).
At a pH of 6.5, NH3 (ammonia) is converted to NH4 (ammonia), which is basically non-toxic for most fish (many of ammonia removing chemicals similar to an ion exchange, and they really do not remove the ammonia). If you have plants in your aquarium is directly consumed by ammonia (especially hornwort), and the NO2 (nitrite), part of the nitrogen cycle zero. The danger here is if the pH rises above 6.5 the ammonia can change much more toxic NH3 and aerobic bacteria needed for the consumption of nitrite is low.
For more information about the nitrogen cycle, see this article: AQUARIUM NITROGEN CYCLE
LIVE PLANTS:
Live plants are desirable, in my opinion, but many artificial plants can look very realistic when they are ready or used in combination with live plants. For a beginner live plants are more difficult, but not much.
The benefits of live plants are great in removal of nitrates and maintain a natural balance to the aquarium, removing CO2 and adding oxygen (only during the day). Hornwort is an excellent disposal plant nitrates (including removal of ammonia), and is relatively easy to grow. Banana plants (if available) are also an easy installation.
Here is a list of "easy" beginner plants:
Compact swords, hornwort, Red wendtii, spiral valise, enano subulata, Hygro, Java fern or lace ordinary.
Beware that many fish "cutting" their plants, such as silver dollars, Most of the cichlids, and goldfish.
For healthy plants I suggest a substrate of sand mixed with laterite # 00 about 3-5 cm deep with a gravel layer # 3 at the top about 2 cm deep. This combination works well for the plant roots, the ease of just vacuuming the top layer (where plant roots), and for better biological filtration. You can replace the laterite with a sandy top soil (although usually not as good source of iron), preparations for the Thus, the soil; Gather top of sandy soil, add water with a 10 / 1 bleach solution, mix a couple of minutes, then rinse (with a chlorinator for first rinse) until the water is relatively clear. The sand is what that is combined with plant roots.
POWER:
I recommend feeding high quality fish and plant-based foods. Quality ingredients include: spirulina, fish meal, FD Brine Shrimp, shrimp meal, vitamin C and E, lobster shell.
Fish can not digest meat proteins well, getting most of the fish and their energy needs from fat. Some quality foods include: Omega, Spirulina 20, Ocean Nutrition, Hikari, Sanyu.
Eating fish two to three times what days are going to consume in three minutes.
Feeding foods high in protein low quality can increase their levels of nitrate, as an essential ingredient in protein is nitrogen, and if not used by fish, which is excreted, enter the nitrogen cycle.
CLEANING:
You should try to take a schedule change of 20% (or more) of water each week. I recommend using a gravel vacuum, you need not remove the fish while using a gravel vacuum. Sure that water be added at the same temperature and pH, and has no chlorine or chloramines.
CHEMISTRY:
Save your level of ammonia at 0, nitrite 0, nitrates below its 20-30, and KH above 80 ppm. Ph depends very much on the fish that are maintained. Under discussion prefer a pH below 7.0, while Mbuna African cichlids prefer above 8.0
A very general ph of 7.2 -7.5 community work for many fish. Crushed coral and / or deposits may help Maravilla to maintain a high pH when you want an aquarium with a higher pH, KH, GH, and especially when touching or the water is very acidic (Wonder Shells are much faster the dissolution of electrolytes and add crushed coral KH not!).
For a lower pH in aquariums where the water used is very high (usually 7.8 or higher) I have used mixtures of RO (Reverse Osmosis) water and tap water. The proportion varies with the pH of tap water, KH and GH and the water conditions I want to achieve. Disk which can be as high as 75% RO. After maintaining these conditions for the use of peat in my filters. Note that GH does not affect the pH, and magnesium (a major ingredient GH) is important for the metabolism of fish. We also note that calcium is the main factor of KH (which affects the pH) is also important for the metabolism of fish and fish health and healing. With the previous method of using RO (or DI) water in a mixture with tap water and peat, I was still able to maintain a KH above 80 ppm (for proper calcium absorption), often with additives such Wonder Shells or Calcium Polygluconate.
CONCLUSION:
This is only general information, there is much more in-depth articles on each of these topics and more available. But these are sound principles to follow, based on 27 + years of experience in the maintenance of the aquarium. As new and better methods are available to regularly update my information in this regard.
For my more in-depth article:
Aquarius Information
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